I grab a couple of maps, a Thai sim card and head out into the touting of drivers. To every driver I tell that I need to get to Narathiwat, I get looks of shock and stern warnings not to go there. For the little English the drivers could speak, they managed to tell me of bombs, war and danger.  It was then that I realized how truly scared the people of Thailand are of the hostility in the deep south. Phuket airport’s a long way off from the deep south, but a great way to experience Songkran along the way.

Songkran is celebrated in Thailand as the traditional New Year's Day from 13 to 15 April. The most obvious celebration of Songkran is the throwing of water – this originated as a way to pay respect to people, by capturing the water after it had been poured over the Buddhas for cleansing and then using this "blessed" water to give good fortune to elders and family by gently pouring it on the shoulder. Among young people the holiday evolved to include dousing strangers with water to relieve the heat, since April is the hottest month in Thailand (temperatures can rise to over 100°F or 40°C on some days). This has further evolved into water fights and splashing water over people riding in vehicles.

7 hours in a minivan and I’m in Hat Yai. The crazy wet festivities are the same, but not a single foreigner in sight. Songkran in Phuket and Krabi feels more like drunk foreigners with water guns looking for a party. Hat Yai engulfs you into the genuine vibe of the celebration.

A soldier from Narathiwat shoots dead 1 person and injures 4 others in a pub in Phuket during the celebrations, but i'm still making my way to hostile Narathiwat...

- to be continued -
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